Way Too Beautiful: Hotel Palomar & Domaso Trattoria Moderna

After working through Saturday afternoon, a good hard run was needed to de-stress and to prepare for my reservation at Domaso Trattoria Moderna at 6:30pm. In hopes of catching the end of the "guest only" wine tasting, I made sure to arrive at Hotel Palomar around 5:40pm. The valet took my car and another stunningly/amusingly dressed doorman opened all doors for me to lead me upstairs. (I say 'stunningly/amusingly' because both African-American men have been fantastically dressed in what I consider to be 20's mobster suits. This gentleman, however, was topped with a gorgeous Fedora - it fit him and his character perfectly. He was quite charismatic, and told me the secret to getting free valet - "he only tells one lady a night" ... riiiight. I made sure to get my receipt validated after dinner.)

I thanked him for offering to bring me upstairs, but explained that I wanted to stop in Domasoteca before dinner. I made my way to the store's counter where my goals were 1) to pick up another 70% cocoa bar, because I had eaten the other one before opening the wine I intended to eat it with (ahaha, SO typical), and 2) to ask if the store, as the gourmet shop of the Italian restaurant upstairs, carried any wines like the 3 sparkling ones I had tried earlier in the week at Dino. They did not, but as a new shop looking for their customers' input, the sommelier agreed that they should start to carry some.

When I got up to the 4th floor living room, my heart kinda fluttered. The previously quiet serene place had been transformed into a chic, chill lounge. There were about 50 people in the large space ... lounging on the beautifully curves couches in front of the two-sided fireplaces, all sipping glasses of wine! How wonderful! The wine tasting was still in progress ... and by 'wine tasting', I mean that there was a man from some VA winery giving out full glasses of wine to anyone who walked up to him. While standing on the short line for a pre-dinner glass, I talked with a guy who had been downstairs in Domasoteca. He asked if I had seen the deck around back and commented how 'this' (the wine, the restaurant, the hotel, the 'space') was exactly what the area needed. He tried a red Meritage which he enjoyed, I tried a chardonnay, which I didn't. But I was too distracted to really care.

Distracted? Yeah. (No, not by the guy - he had just met up with his girlfriend.) As I sat down on one of the couches facing the entire room, I almost blushed at how 'successful' the space seemed. I was happy for the room ... or for its designer, or something. Everyone here was impacted by the space: The micro-suede chairs were turned towards the fire as if their occupants were in their own living rooms, couples leaned intimately towards each other on the couches - smiling, giggling, accepting newly-filled glasses of wine from the staff circling the tables. There were well-dressed "Upper West Side" (NYC) late-20s, kids-out-of-the-house late-40s/early-50s (reminding me of my parents), 30-somethings. Even I, sitting next to a giggling couple on one of the couches, felt like the space was my own. It is one I will always remember - and hope to visit a few more times before the hotel's prices skyrocket (they are currently hosting opening room specials for about 1/2 the price they will be.)

I started to really feel like a snob when I ask the hostess if I can be seated at the wall of windows in Domaso. (I have to be careful that my passion for tasty things doesn't turn me into some rude, spoiled brat, heh ... someone hit me, please.) All I know is that I'm awestruck walking through the bar lounge, past the bakery and open kitchen. Of all the beautiful things to tell about, the most dramatic is the curved wall of 17'-or-so-tall windows that were dark accept for the lights on the river beyond. Just outside was a patio, the size of the restaurant itself, above the river. Someone is going to have a beautiful, beautiful wedding. (And in the summer, the patio is open for dining.)


The restaurant met the living room in 'chill-ness' (quantity of 'chill'?), and surpassed it in beauty. It was especially beautiful to me, because everything was a different texture. Exotic, 'hand-cut', stone tiling on the walls, deep-grained wood tiling on the floor, suede seating, warm and dark wood furniture with subtle, metallic, embroidery. The fabrics were sheer and bronzed, separating some tables, casting a metallic sheen on the windows. The low furniture made the arched ceilings, chandeliers and windows soar. How the lighting bounced off of the fabrics and walls made the entire restaurant seem candle-lit. It was stunning.

Oh right ... the food. Well it was nice that there were a total of 19 wines by-the-glass (red, white and sparkling - ranging from only $7-13). A Valentine's Day 4-course menu was being offered (a steal at $50 for the food, $20 for the wine paring!); I opted for the standard menu after eating-out so much this week and because there was nothing particularly stunning about the 4-course listing (a soup, a filet, a raspberry gelato heart) except for the baby diver's scallop w/ a ravioli of arugula, sheep's milk ricotta, a quail egg and goat milk butter.

I started with the Pomodoro soup (a tomato/bread soup) and asked my waiter for a wine recommendation. It was good - the fresh, pureed tomato gave it the taste of a warm gazpacho. The pinot noir (from the Russian River valley!) and some pepper gave it a nice richness. While nothing outstanding, for $6, it was very good (and I ended up getting it for free because I had a card for a free appetizer from the wine tasting.) Of the "fresh-baked-breads", the "Rustic Potato" was my favorite - it had a cornmeal-like texture.

It was my main course that stole the show. I decided against the terrific-sounding risotto-of-the-day (with prosciutto, reggiano, etc.) in favor of the Gnocchetti. (Come on, everyone knows you can always tell the quality of an Italian Restaurant by it's homemade gnocchi!) The menu read: "GNOCCHETTI: ricotta dumplings with sauteed wild mushrooms and a fontina cheese sauce". I'm not usually a fan of cheese sauces - and was gambling with a potentially overly-heavy dish - but the fontina and mushrooms won me over. The taste was spot on, the texture, perfect. The mushrooms (enoki, cremini, trumpet) were perfectly firm, and very 'woodsy but not overpowering. The fontina was extremely flavorful: nutty and light. The dumplings had a slight chew, but were not at all 'chewy' or heavy. They weren't too dense and their silkiness contrasted perfectly with the plumped mushrooms. Black pepper made it all pop. The Pinot Grigio wasn't outstanding.

As they were out of the "Spuma di Castagne" (a chestnut and chocolate mousse with quince and moscato compote), my dessert was simply another glass of Moscato di'Asti in a beautiful, tulip-shaped glass.

I'm hesitant to talk about the obvious negatives of Domaso, because there was so much good. But, as my title implies, the beauty definitely did distract me from faults that I would have been truly unhappy about elsewhere. I'll keep it short: The service. It is a new restaurant, so I know it will get better, but my waiter had yet to be trained on the offered dishes and wine. He chewed gum the whole time and made it clear that he was getting impatient that I was taking my time ordering. (He had mentioned that he had been late to work, so I gave him the benefit of the doubt that he had something personal going on and was extra friendly, encouraging him on his efforts after making numerous mistakes with my requests.) Also, my two glasses of wine were more like 1/2 glasses and the bread had been out much too long (not usually a complaint I'd care to write about, but Domaso does pride itself on its on-premises baked breads.)

Overall, $60 (w/ tips) got me 5 glasses of wine (2 from the free tasting), an appetizer (free with coupon), a main course (I took 1/2 of the Gnocchetii home), and parking (I was able to bypass the $25 valet fee). The atmospheres of the Hotel Palomar and Domaso Trattoria Moderna were worth every penny. Someday I'll have pictures that justify how smitten I am with these places!